Fiesole to Compiobbi

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Click here for a printerfriendly small map and directions (we recommend that you purchase Kompass map #660 Firenze • Chianti).

Todays walk started with a ride on ATAF bus #7 to Fiesole. Nestled in the hilly valleys between the Arno and Mugnone rivers, beautiful Fiesole offers spectacular views of nearby Florence and is a welcome fresh-air retreat from the city bustle. In the middle ages, rich Florentine families built their summer retreats up here in the hills. Fiesole has a duomo, an impressive art museum and an archaeological site featuring an Etruscan temple and the remains of a Roman theatre and baths.

As there was much construction in the main square, we asked a passing nun for directions to Monte Ceceri. The path first follows the old walls and goes along the side of the hill with beautiful views of Florence, then entered the 'Area di interesse locale Montececeri'.
Monte Ceceri is famous for the belief that Leonarda da Vinci tried out his 'flying machine' from it's top. This belief is based on one of his journal entries which loosely translated reads:

"The big bird will rise over the back of the large swan for his first flight. He will fill the universe with astonishment. All records will reflect this accomplishment and eternal fame will be bestowed on the place from which it originated"
This has been interpreted as the 'big bird' being da Vincis flying machine and the 'large swan' being Monte Ceceri (cecero = swan).
Lovely views of the Tuscan countryside from up here!
Leaving the protected area we walked through the eastern outskirts of Fiesole, after a few hundred feet on the main road turned off on a path through the woods.
Passing olive groves and old farmhouses we followed the red-white markings on a dirt path. Sometimes we almost missed the markings as they were painted on walls, rocks, and olive trees and had faded a bit. I think we might have also been a little distracted by the beauty of our surroundings!
Turning left after the little church 'San Lorenzo' onto a very small path, we soon could turn around and see the 'Castello di Vincigliato' behind us. Turning left in front of a large walled farmhouse, the trail led us up to the main road with another Castello barely visible through the woods up on our left. Here is where we met Amy and Alex! They were toting the 'Walking in Tuscany' book and obviously lost. Having taken a wrong turn, and not carrying a map, they welcomed our help in getting them back to the correct path towards Castello Vincigliato. We ran into them again while we were in Pisa the next day, what a coincidence, and they had enjoyed walking this section in the opposite direction.
We turned onto path #6, well marked with the red-white stripes. The path goes to the right around a farmhouse and from the olive grove below offered graceful vistas in all directions.


The village of Ontignano was very picturesque, but we passed on a visit as we were ready for lunch! Just a few minutes later we reached the waterfall and took an extensive repose. Cooling our feet in the clear water, we ate our sandwiches and wished we had packed a bottle of wine.
From here we walked on a single lane dirt road for about an hour. The path goes through the hamlet Palatici, then becomes paved with olive groves framing the view of Compiobbi. Another 20 minutes and we had found the bus stop (SITA to Florence, every 30 minutes). Tickets are available from a magazine stand, be sure to check your change here, as we paid with a 20 Euro bill, received change for only 5 Euro and had to ask for the rest. The gelato and bakery on the corner was a great place to wait, we actually let the first bus go by so we could have seconds!


Home | Cinque Terre | Alpi Apuane | Tuscany | Resources | Links
Click the links above to see more information about each region or the link below to return to our HomePage
Main Page with links to hiking and cycling information in other areas